Donairs were originally not for the lucky-in-love, but the recourse of the degenerate. They were the butt of toilet humour, the scapegoat of indigestion. The mystery meat with the secret sauce was wrapped in urban legend. It was so commonplace that we took it for granted, no more significant than hamburgers or spaghetti.
Book of Donair is the definitive guide to this much beloved delicacy. In Book of Donair,
Lindsay Wickstrom explores the history of the donair, and the people who shaped this
Halifax-born kebab into the iconic Canadian street food it has become.
I have always been a food lover and a writer, and they gradually coalesced into food blogging. I backpacked across Canada in 2009, and I would say that this was the catalyst for my love of culinary history and regional foods. I developed this passion for learning about iconic foods in different parts of the world, and naturally, I wanted to showcase Atlantic Canada. The donair is the most notorious and symbolic food of Nova Scotia. It is a Canadian original and it deserves to have its story told.
The last chapter of the book is a collection of submitted donair stories, but my favourite is probably Neil MacFarlane’s epic tale of how he single-handedly conquered a Bash Toulany Rumble Party Challenge Donair. I can feel the grease and sweat just reading it!
I think it’s that combination of sweet and spicy that captured the attention of the Maritime palate, especially at a time when food was predictable and one-noted. The donair would have been exotic, yet familiar. It resembles comfort food. Now the donair is a symbol of “home” and there is a certain nostalgia and hometown pride attached to it. At the end of the day, it is meat and bread. Everywhere in the world has its own version. Every city has its local delicacy or regional curiosity that locals keep close to their hearts.
I definitely felt like a food detective at times, and it was exhilarating to unravel the mystery. I would discover groundbreaking, narrative-shattering information and it was a rush. It was also incredibly tedious, and seemed impossible at times. I wanted the book to be fun and entertaining, but still informative and well researched. I had to find that balance and find my voice.
Probably my Dad, if I’m being honest. He’s actually a bit of a researcher, himself, in his retirement! My family has always liked dining out together, and restaurants have become my “happy place”. Anthony Bourdain is my “food hero”, though. That is my dream job: traveling, eating and contemplating the world.
Lindsay Wickstrom is the author of the award-winning blog, Eat This Town, in which she delves into the Canadian culinary landscape, throwing light on the regional and the obscure, with the goal of creating cohesion and pride across cultures and provincial borders.